Visiting the Sessho-seki: The Legend of Japan’s Killing Stone in Nasu

Nine-tailed fox Tamamo-no-Mae transforming into Sessho-seki in an autumnal landscape.

In the picturesque town of Nasu, Tochigi Prefecture, lies the mysterious Sessho-seki, or Killing Stone. This natural wonder is steeped in legend and history, drawing visitors intrigued by its mythical past and natural beauty.

栃木県那須町、殺生石のバナー。ウィキヴォヤージュのバナー。
“Sessho-seki Nasu Wikivoyage banner” by 663highland, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

What Is the Sesshō-seki? Location and Natural Wonder

FACT: The Natural Setting

The Sessho-seki, also known as the Killing Stone, is located near Nasu Yumoto Onsen, about 200 meters north of Nasu Onsen Shrine. This sulfurous valley is accessible daily without charge, making it a popular spot for both tourists and locals. The area is known for its volcanic activity, which contributes to the stone’s ominous reputation. Visitors to the site can expect to find a landscape marked by its geothermal features, with steam rising from the ground and the distinct smell of sulfur permeating the air. The natural beauty of the surrounding Nasu Highlands adds to the allure of this enigmatic location.

The geothermal activity in the area is a result of the Nasu volcanic zone, which is part of the larger volcanic arc stretching across Japan. This activity not only shapes the landscape but also influences the local flora and fauna, creating a unique ecosystem. The presence of sulfur and other minerals in the soil supports a variety of plant species that have adapted to these conditions, offering a glimpse into nature’s resilience.

Nine-tailed fox Tamamo-no-Mae transforming into Sessho-seki in an autumnal landscape.
AI生成イメージ / AI-generated illustration (not a photograph of the actual place)

The Legend of Tamamo-no-Mae and the Nine-Tailed Fox

LEGEND: The Mythical Origins

According to legend, the Sessho-seki is linked to Tamamo-no-Mae, a beautiful woman who was actually a nine-tailed fox in disguise. This fox spirit was said to have served in the court of Emperor Toba, using her powers to manipulate and deceive. Her beauty and charm captivated the court, but her true identity as a supernatural being was eventually uncovered. When her deception was revealed, she fled and transformed into the Sessho-seki, a stone that kills anyone who touches it. This transformation was said to be her final act of defiance, leaving behind a cursed object that would continue to wreak havoc.

In Japanese folklore, the nine-tailed fox, or “kitsune,” is a common motif, often associated with intelligence, trickery, and magical abilities. Tamamo-no-Mae’s story is a classic example of this archetype, embodying the themes of transformation and deception. The tale serves as a cautionary story about the dangers of unchecked ambition and the consequences of using one’s gifts for deceitful purposes.

LEGEND: Variations of the Tale

While the core of the legend remains consistent, variations exist in the telling of Tamamo-no-Mae’s story. Some accounts suggest that her transformation into the stone was a punishment for her misdeeds, while others depict it as a voluntary act to escape capture. Regardless of the version, the tale of the nine-tailed fox remains a captivating part of Japanese folklore, illustrating themes of betrayal, power, and the supernatural.

In some regional variations, the story of Tamamo-no-Mae is intertwined with other local legends, adding layers of complexity and cultural significance. These stories often reflect the values and beliefs of the communities that tell them, serving as a means of preserving cultural identity and imparting moral lessons to future generations.

那須温泉郷 - Nasu Yumoto Onsen
“那須温泉郷” (Nasu Yumoto Onsen) by 竹のしずく, CC BY-SA 4.0, source, via Wikimedia Commons

Monk Gennō and the Breaking of the Stone

LEGEND: A Monk’s Intervention

One account tells of a monk named Gennō, who, upon visiting the stone, struck it with his staff, breaking its curse. This act is said to have freed the spirit of Tamamo-no-Mae, allowing the stone to become a place of peace rather than death. According to this legend, Gennō’s intervention was guided by a divine vision or spiritual insight, leading him to confront the stone’s malevolent aura. His actions transformed the Sessho-seki from a feared object into a symbol of spiritual triumph and redemption.

The story of Gennō highlights the role of spiritual figures in Japanese folklore, often portrayed as mediators between the human and supernatural worlds. Monks like Gennō are depicted as possessing wisdom and purity, capable of overcoming malevolent forces through their faith and dedication. This legend underscores the belief in the power of spiritual insight to bring about positive change and healing.

Volcanic Gases and the Science Behind the ‘Killing Stone’

FACT: The Scientific Explanation

The deadly reputation of the Sessho-seki is partly due to the volcanic gases emitted from the area. These gases, primarily sulfur, have been known to cause harm to those who venture too close, lending credence to the stone’s lethal legend. The presence of these gases is a natural result of the region’s geothermal activity, which is a characteristic feature of the Nasu volcanic zone. Visitors are advised to be cautious and observe safety guidelines when exploring the area to avoid exposure to potentially harmful emissions.

Scientific studies of the area have shown that the concentration of sulfur gases can vary depending on weather conditions and volcanic activity. This variability adds an element of unpredictability to the site, reinforcing the sense of mystery and danger associated with the Sessho-seki. For those interested in geology and natural phenomena, the site offers an opportunity to witness the dynamic processes that shape the Earth’s surface.

那須湯本十石 - Hotels in Tochigi prefecture, Nasu Yumoto Onsen
“那須湯本十石” (Hotels in Tochigi prefecture, Nasu Yumoto Onsen) by 富双江葉大馬, CC BY-SA 3.0, source, via Wikimedia Commons

Matsuo Bashō and Historical Visitors to Nasu

FACT: Cultural References

The famous haiku poet Matsuo Bashō referenced the Sessho-seki in his travelogue “Oku no Hosomichi.” His visit to Nasu and the stone highlights the site’s cultural significance and its longstanding place in Japanese folklore. Bashō’s writings reflect his deep appreciation for the natural and spiritual landscapes of Japan, and his mention of the Sessho-seki adds a layer of literary prestige to the site. For those interested in Japanese literature and poetry, the connection to Bashō provides an enriching context to the legend.

Bashō’s haiku, known for their simplicity and depth, often capture the essence of a moment or place. His reference to the Sessho-seki not only immortalizes the site in Japanese literature but also invites readers to contemplate the interplay between nature and myth. This connection between the natural world and human imagination is a recurring theme in Bashō’s work, offering insights into the cultural and philosophical underpinnings of his time.

Recent Events: The 2022 Splitting of the Stone

FACT: A Modern Phenomenon

In 2022, the Sessho-seki made headlines when it unexpectedly split into two. This event sparked renewed interest in the site, with many seeing it as a symbolic end to the stone’s deadly past, while others viewed it as an ominous sign. The splitting of the stone was a natural occurrence, possibly due to weathering or seismic activity, but it reignited public fascination with the legend. Visitors today can witness the divided stone, which serves as a reminder of the enduring power of myth and the ever-changing nature of the natural world.

The event has led to various interpretations, with some viewing it as a metaphor for change and renewal, while others see it as a continuation of the stone’s mysterious legacy. This modern phenomenon has also sparked discussions about the preservation of cultural heritage and the importance of documenting natural events that impact historical sites. For those visiting the Sessho-seki, the split stone offers a tangible connection to both the past and the present, highlighting the dynamic relationship between history and nature.

How to Visit Sesshō-seki and Nasu Yumoto Onsen Safely

Visitors to the Sessho-seki can enjoy the scenic beauty of the Nasu Highlands while exploring the area’s rich history. It’s recommended to check the official website for current hours, fees, and access information to ensure a safe and enjoyable visit. The site offers a unique blend of natural wonder and cultural heritage, making it a must-see for those interested in Japan’s legendary landscapes. The nearby Nasu Yumoto Onsen provides additional opportunities for relaxation and exploration, with its hot springs and traditional Japanese inns offering a taste of local hospitality.

Nearby Guide

Access

  • Nasu Yumoto Onsen Bus Stop (Nasu-machi) — From JR Nasushiobara Station, take the Kanto Jidosha bus bound for ‘Nasu Yumoto Onsen’ (approximately 50 minutes). Alight at the ‘Nasu Yumoto Onsen’ bus stop, then walk about 5 minutes to reach Sesshō-seki. details

Nearby sights

  • Mount Chausu Ropeway (Nasu-machi) — A ropeway that ascends Mount Chausu, offering panoramic views of the Nasu Highlands. The gondola ride takes about four minutes, reaching an elevation of 1,684 meters. It’s a popular spot for hiking and enjoying autumn foliage. details
  • Shika-no-yu Bathhouse (Nasu-machi) — Nasu’s original bathhouse, named after a wounded deer that led a hunter to the spring. The bathhouse features small pools with temperatures ranging from about 41°C to 48°C. It’s a historic site offering a traditional onsen experience. details
Locator map of Japan: Nasu, Tochigi
Legend site: Nasu, Tochigi — Source: Map of Japan with highlight on 09 Tochigi prefecture.svg; Map: Lincun, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Sources

About the author

JAPAN ESSENCE Editorial Team
Our mission is to bring you Japan’s legends, myths, festivals and living traditions, through both historical fact and the stories passed down over generations.

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