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Winter Pilgrim Experiences on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage

Kobo Daishi on Mount Gokenzan, sees Yakushi Nyorai in winter scenery, embodying spiritual vision.

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In Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture, the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage takes on a unique charm during the winter months. Pilgrims and travelers alike are drawn to the serene landscapes and spiritual rituals that define this sacred journey.

Kobo Daishi on Mount Gokenzan, sees Yakushi Nyorai in winter scenery, embodying spiritual vision.
AI生成イメージ / AI-generated illustration (not a photograph of the actual place)

Introduction to Winter Travel on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

FACT: The Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage

The Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage, also known as the Henro, is one of Japan’s most famous spiritual journeys. It spans the island of Shikoku, covering a distance of approximately 1,200 kilometers and includes 88 official temples. Pilgrims, or “ohenro-san,” often undertake this journey seeking spiritual enlightenment and personal reflection. During winter, the pilgrimage offers a quieter, more introspective experience, with fewer crowds and a tranquil atmosphere.

The pilgrimage is not just a physical journey but a deeply spiritual one, where participants often wear traditional white clothing symbolizing purity and the beginning of a new spiritual path. Many pilgrims also carry a staff, representing the presence of Kobo Daishi, the founder of the pilgrimage, believed to accompany them in spirit. The winter season, with its crisp air and serene silence, enhances the meditative quality of this journey, allowing pilgrims to immerse themselves fully in the spiritual practices and rituals at each temple.

FACT: Winter Pilgrimage Experience

Embarking on the pilgrimage during the winter months presents a unique set of experiences. The cooler temperatures and the possibility of snow add a layer of tranquility to the journey. The paths, often bustling with pilgrims in warmer months, become serene, offering a chance for deeper reflection and connection with the spiritual aspects of the pilgrimage. The winter landscape, with its stark beauty, allows pilgrims to focus on the spiritual essence of their journey without the distractions of the usual tourist crowds.

Winter pilgrims often find that the season’s challenges, such as navigating icy paths and enduring cold winds, mirror the internal challenges of their spiritual journey. This alignment between the external environment and internal reflection can lead to profound personal insights and growth. Many pilgrims report feeling a stronger connection to the natural world and a heightened sense of peace and clarity during their winter travels.

Yakuriji Temple and the Annual Hoshiku Goma Fire Ritual

FACT: What Happens at Yakuriji Temple

Yakuriji Temple, also known as Temple 85 on the pilgrimage route, is located in Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture. This temple is renowned for its annual Hoshiku Goma fire ritual, a spiritual ceremony that involves the burning of wooden prayer sticks to invoke blessings and protection from deities. The ritual is a significant event for pilgrims, symbolizing purification and the clearing of obstacles in one’s spiritual path.

During the Hoshiku Goma ritual, participants write their prayers and wishes on wooden sticks, which are then offered to the temple priests. These sticks are placed in a sacred fire, and as they burn, it is believed that the smoke carries the prayers to the heavens. The ritual’s communal nature fosters a sense of unity among pilgrims, as they come together to share in this powerful spiritual practice.

FACT: The Significance of the Hoshiku Goma Ritual

The Hoshiku Goma ritual is deeply rooted in Buddhist tradition, where fire is seen as a purifying force. During the ceremony, the flames are believed to cleanse the mind and spirit, helping participants to let go of negative thoughts and emotions. The ritual is not only a personal journey for each pilgrim but also a communal event that brings together those on the pilgrimage path, fostering a sense of unity and shared purpose.

For many, participating in the Hoshiku Goma is a transformative experience. The ritual’s symbolism of burning away impurities and obstacles resonates deeply with pilgrims, serving as a powerful metaphor for personal growth and spiritual renewal. The shared experience of the ritual also strengthens the bonds between pilgrims, creating a supportive community that enhances the overall pilgrimage experience.

Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu 3-27 (26501902471) - Sakura in Ritsurin Garden, Sandō (Ritsurin Garden)
“Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu 3-27 (26501902471)” (Sakura in Ritsurin Garden, Sandō (Ritsurin Garden)) by KimonBerlin, CC BY-SA 2.0, source, via Wikimedia Commons

The Legend of Yakuriji and Mount Gokenzan

LEGEND: The Story of Yakuriji’s Founding

According to local legend, Yakuriji Temple was founded by the revered monk Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai, who is credited with establishing the Shikoku pilgrimage. The story goes that Kobo Daishi climbed Mount Gokenzan, where the temple is situated, and had a vision of the deity Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing. Inspired by this vision, he decided to build the temple to honor the deity and provide a place of healing and spiritual refuge for pilgrims.

This legend highlights the deep spiritual connection between the natural landscape and the temple’s founding. Mount Gokenzan is considered a sacred place, and the story of Kobo Daishi’s vision reinforces the idea that the location itself is imbued with spiritual power. Pilgrims visiting Yakuriji Temple often reflect on this legend, finding inspiration in the idea that the divine can manifest in the natural world.

LEGEND: Variations of the Founding Story

There are several variations of the legend surrounding the founding of Yakuriji Temple. Some versions suggest that Kobo Daishi was guided by a divine light to the location of the temple, while others emphasize the role of natural elements, such as a sacred spring or a unique rock formation, in inspiring the temple’s creation. These stories reflect the rich tapestry of oral traditions that surround the Shikoku pilgrimage, each adding depth to the spiritual significance of the journey.

These variations illustrate the dynamic nature of oral traditions, where each retelling can introduce new elements or emphasize different aspects of the story. For pilgrims, engaging with these legends provides a deeper understanding of the cultural and spiritual heritage of the pilgrimage, enriching their journey with layers of meaning and connection to the past.

Illuminated Heritage: Ritsurin Garden in the Cooler Months

FACT: Ritsurin Garden’s Winter Beauty

Ritsurin Garden, located in Takamatsu, is one of Japan’s most celebrated historical gardens. During the winter months, the garden transforms into a serene landscape, with its meticulously maintained paths and ponds offering a peaceful retreat. The garden is particularly famous for its autumn illumination, which extends into the early winter, providing a magical backdrop for evening strolls.

The garden’s design, which includes carefully arranged trees, ponds, and bridges, creates a harmonious balance that is accentuated by the winter light. Visitors can enjoy the quiet beauty of the garden, where the absence of vibrant colors allows the intricate shapes and textures of the landscape to stand out. This seasonal transformation offers a unique perspective on the garden’s artistry and the natural beauty of the region.

FACT: Experiencing Ritsurin Garden’s Illumination

The illumination at Ritsurin Garden is a spectacle that highlights the garden’s natural beauty. As the sun sets, the garden is bathed in soft lights that accentuate the shapes of trees and the contours of the landscape. This enchanting scene draws visitors who wish to experience the tranquility and elegance of the garden in a different light. The winter illumination is a perfect complement to the reflective nature of the pilgrimage, offering a moment of peace and beauty amidst the spiritual journey.

Visitors to Ritsurin Garden during the illumination can also participate in traditional tea ceremonies, adding another layer of cultural experience to their visit. The combination of the garden’s serene atmosphere, the beauty of the lights, and the ritual of tea creates a memorable experience that resonates with the themes of reflection and tranquility found in the pilgrimage.

Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu 3-27 (26475548352) - Ritsurin Garden
“Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu 3-27 (26475548352)” (Ritsurin Garden) by KimonBerlin, CC BY-SA 2.0, source, via Wikimedia Commons

Practical Tips for Visiting Takamatsu and Temple 85 in Winter

FACT: How to Visit Yakuriji Temple

Visitors to Yakuriji Temple can access it via a short hike up Mount Gokenzan, which offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The temple is open year-round, but visitors should check the official website for current hours, fees, and access information, especially during winter when weather conditions can affect travel plans.

The hike to Yakuriji Temple itself is a rewarding experience, offering panoramic views of the region and a chance to connect with the natural beauty that inspired the temple’s founding. Pilgrims and visitors alike are encouraged to take their time on this journey, allowing the peaceful surroundings to enhance their spiritual or reflective experience.

FACT: Preparing for Winter Visits

When planning a visit to Takamatsu and the pilgrimage sites during winter, it’s important to prepare for the colder weather. Warm clothing and sturdy footwear are essential, as the paths can be slippery with ice or snow. Additionally, checking the weather forecast and transportation schedules in advance can help ensure a smooth and enjoyable visit. The quieter season provides a unique opportunity to engage with the spiritual and cultural heritage of the area at a more leisurely pace.

Travelers should also consider the shorter daylight hours in winter, planning their visits to ensure they have ample time to explore each site. The winter season, with its calm and reflective atmosphere, is ideal for those seeking a deeper connection with the spiritual and natural elements of the pilgrimage, making it a truly enriching experience.

Locator map of Japan: Takamatsu, Kagawa
Legend site: Takamatsu, Kagawa — Source: Map of Japan with highlight on 37 Kagawa prefecture.svg; Map: Lincun, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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Sources

To explore further, visit Zenkei (禅景) for Zen-inspired onigawara art and Oni Kobo (鬼工房) for onigawara demon-tile art and charms.

About the author

JAPAN ESSENCE Editorial Team
Our mission is to bring you Japan’s legends, myths, festivals and living traditions, through both historical fact and the stories passed down over generations.

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